Climbing sling lengths reddit I like it for cleaning a sport route, setting up a top rope anchor, and starting a rappel. Whether one uses the climbing rope itself or a dedicated length of cord is a personal choice and also depends on the circumstances. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. I, personally, LOVE using a cordalette (or triple length sling). The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. And yes we are scared of falling. the knot might snag. " But, (I know I'm going to regret this) here goes: 1 ORANGE. 5 feet of 1 inch webbing, and three feet of length on the whoopies. Uneven leg lengths should be adjusted using as much low-stretch material as possible, a doubled or tripled Spectra/Dyneema sling being fairly low stretch Mar 13, 2019 · A simple nylon or dyneema sling can function as a personal anchor, although such a thing is certainly less versatile than the other options. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. There are a variety of different models which combine variations of carabiners and slings (also called “dogbones”). I'm also assuming you're talking about polyester round slings, rather than climbing slings? The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. The effective rope length is then the entire length from the climber to the belay device. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. I carry a few alpine draws when I climb sport, but when I clean I still go for the PAS to go in direct. 6 million pounds. Then, you can untie your climbing knots and use the rope to rig the rappel. Tying the slings into any configuration with weaken the already less than ideal materials. Rappel Length: You'll also need to consider the length of rappels on the routes you're climbing. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. I would get 6x sling draws, cheapest and lightest you can find, 6x wiregate quickdraws, lightest and cheapest you can find, and 6x sport quickdraws with beefy dogbones and solid Mar 3, 2023 · While all climbing quickdraws adhere to UIAA standards, certain models perform better than others with things like bent gate carabiners and keylock noses. Multipitch rappelling generally requires some kind of tether, in which case a sling or a PAS will suffice. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. Available in three lengths and with color coded slings; these long draws are made up of two Bravo carabiners joined by an 11 mm Monster Sling. Additionally, I have seen some say that prusiks should be 5-6' in length and other say you should always have at least one prusik that is 10-11' in length. g. I also like the trick where I have one or two double lengths over the opposite shoulder, doubled up with a carabiner and under the single length sling-sling. If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. Alpine climbs, I always bring 60cm slings and a few 120s. Slickness Dyneema is much slicker than nylon. Will deploy… My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. With a 20' cordelette anchor, thats a lot of distance to displace force. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. The metal s-biners are too heavy for what they do. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Trad climbers will often forgo the Personal Anchor System and just use slings, since they have many on their harness already. The shorter length is perfect length for 3 wraps of double ropes, which is the perfect amount of friction on 2 strand rappels of normal rock rope diameters. 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. The doubles are accessed by unclipping and pulling out from under the single length. com but the gist of it is: Absolutely no metal gear allowed on the rock, only textiles. 1. I don't mess with alpine draws at all because almost all of my placements are cams and if I extend those placements, I always use a full 60cm sling to do so. You can easily store this system on your harness. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Growing Cord. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Read “Climbing Anchors” by John long. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. They’re insanely light and compact, and even with extensions they weigh less as a set than a single ENO or Kammok nylon strap. We tested the 11mm wide, 120cm long version, which allowed us to easily equalize two anchor pieces with a figure-eight knot. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 60cm double-length version of this sling and weighed it at 20g, tied with the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling as the second lightest of all that we have tested. As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. I think swapping the adjust for a grillon would set me down a few inches lower in itself, and when we're hanging panels over head it really pays to be in just the Jul 10, 2023 · For example, in a multi-pitch climbing scenario where you plan to descend on the fixed anchors you just used for climbing the last pitch, rigging a rappel involves transferring the load, i. haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. In nylon slings, the diameter of the nylon fibres inside the sling is tiny, so you can get away with much sharper bends, like shackle pins etc. Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Posted by u/shredwhiteandblue - 2 votes and 21 comments Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. I would not use a dynamically equalizing system in a belay. Otherwise use a master point (an 8 is better than an overhand if you have the slack, easier to untie). for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Thanks in advance, everyone. Belay device, cordelette, nut tool stay on my harness. Whatever your needs are, there’s a quickdraw optimized for you. " IMO fancy carabiners dont really matter much for trad climbing and especially sling draws. are all fair game here. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Get a 100ft static 8mm line. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. 10 - 12cm slings: These short-length slings work in most situations when the route is relatively straight. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. Also take all your 60cm slings also known as "double length slings" and make alpine draws with them and bring those in lieu of regular draws. Different quantities/lengths of cord or sling. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. You can buy nylon cord and webbing off the spool in most climbing shops, and tie it together to create your own cordelette, prusik or sling of the desired length. In my opinion, the only reason to use a sliding x is if you're climbing multiple routes on the same anchors and need the direction of pull to change. Cord is helpful for producing custom-length slings, like a cordelette, that may be utilised in anchor structure or in friction hitches for rappels and help climbing. Also, if you are any heavier-set than me a 120cm sling might not be long enough. I wouldn't actually whip on this, only use it for rappelling or possibly glacier travel. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. I was thinking that after the class, I'll do some top roping on my own. com A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. e. Lengths: 12" (25. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. Good luck! Apr 9, 2024 · There is also the possibility of using a snake/rabbit type sling ie single strand with a loop in each end, eg 110 cm which can be used full length, halved with both ends clipped together, or "girth hitched" around a natural thread etc. While the shorter length is perhaps more common, the longer length is certainly more versatile. For multipitch where you don't want to be humping your partner at a belay station, this length is a bit nicer, let's you move around a bit. These (or the 180 cm slings you mentioned) could be used as draw extenders in your case. Overall, you are generally safe using two quickdraws if your bolts are level with each other and your masterpoint isn't obstructed. Many of the sewn slings are listed in CM's. Dynema is amazing. Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. eg. I just recently got one. The only impact it has is making sure I have two of the same length for the anchor. Just don't seal the ends of the webbing when you cut it. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. Alpines are only for nuts and although It happens I hate extending them because putting them back, I think is a pain. How many… The weight of multiple climbing-quality biner can add up quickly. Two lengths (3-4 feet) of webbing works well. 8 singles and 2 doubles is a pretty good and common setup, although 6 single and 2 doubles would be pretty reasonable, also, considering that you're also getting The effective length of dynamic rope to absorb the energy of a fall is just the bit from the last pro to the climber. What we don’t: Not the lightest or cheapest set-up. If you want to know more about the ethics involved in climbing in the birthplace of free climbing, there is a good write-up on thecrag. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Mar 13, 2024 · Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible. ) May 18, 2021 · 1 shoulder-length sling; Wiregates tend to be a little more versatile than solid-gate ‘biners because of their lighter weight. It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). I most commonly see folks use one of these at a crag with 2 anchor bolts; in this instance you clip a carabiner into 2 loops at the end of your PAS and clip each carabiner into an anchor bolt. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. You're better off with the rope cloved to the other bolt. If you create your own slings, tie your nylon webbing using a water knot that’s long tails (at least 2″ long). While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. Posted by u/HeathenHen - 7 votes and 27 comments May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. The length is up to you. I would make them longer and the "power point" shorter. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. I carry 4 alpines (Ya it's different) and slings over my shoulder for cams. 12c-ish plateau. it that sewn sling 12 inches or 24 inches? What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Looking for feedback on whether this design is flawed. You can absolutely do all of that with a couple of long slings, but I like the easy length adjustability. Aug 31, 2020 · Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Jul 11, 2024 · Best uses: Alpine, trad climbing Weight: 80 g Length: 60 cm (sling length) What we like: More durable and versatile than other alpine draws on the market. There have been zero situations in my climbing career where I found myself wishing for the extendable sling feature. 1 Agreed. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Adjama Is my go to as well. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Setting up anchors I bought two different length of QuickDraw when I got started because I thought that was better. The D:d ratio comments above are valid, but are usually spoken about in terms of wire rope. I extend my cam placements with 60cm slings racked over-the-shoulder with a single carabiner clipped in. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. Cams, TriCams & stoppers on carabiners clipped to a shoulder gear sling hanging from a hook in a rafter. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). It is only one gram heavier than the two lightest slings, the Mammut Contact Sling and the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. From what I remember of the route, a double length sling will probably leave you with a fair amount of slack. Depends on your local climbing area. If it’s really wandery I’ll extend even further with either a single-length or (rarely) with a double-length sling. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. I once saw posted a place to buy reasonably priced static rope that was essentially odd lengths cut from longer pieces. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. 60 cm's is about 24 inches. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. While many other slings will also work for this purpose, we are convinced that the Open Loop Sling is the ideal choice. Those slings aren’t nearly long enough to reduce angles enough. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. On the way down I use a double length sling with an overhand tied somewhere below middle using the extended rappel/personal anchor combo. but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. 5-6 meters) of webbing can provide you with versatility in constructing anchors. Reply reply It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. My slings all have one carabiner and I use cams racking biner for the other side. All real life cases are somewhere in between. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. Alpine: lightweight, thin slings and wire gates everywhere. Those cam placements are surely jankier than the huge trees next to them. Accessory cord is traditionally made of nylon just like your If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Slings and runners generally come in single and double sizes, with the single length being at least 2-3 times longer than the average quick draw. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. On two bolts I usually clove to the master point of a knotted double length sling. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. Just curious. Or two singles. Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines. The discussion over nylon vs. They are heavy, but burly. , your body weight, from the climbing rope onto the fixed anchor. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Quickdraws in this article range from dedicated sport climbing models to light and stripped-down versions for trad or alpine use. Now imagine the opposite case of zero friction. As others have said. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. For most of my alpine draws I use the standard 60cm slings (single length slings), and I also often carry one or two 120 cm slings for when I'm trying to reduce rope drag from a placement that creates an angle in the rope. Years later I’m still stuck with two different lengths. Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Nov 1, 2024 · Sling is wider at the bottom to facilitate grabbing, stiff sling: Dual keylock carabiners, wide sling: Large carabiners good for big hands or gloves, easy to clip: Double hot-forged wiregate with a rubber keeper on the lower biner: MonoFil Keylock gate, comes in four options with different length slings and carabiner sizes. As the climbing is usually well below limit and pitchs in the 40-60m range I usually extend all placements just to reduce potential for rope drag. This is an adventure-biking sub dedicated to the vast world that exists between ultralight road racing and technical singletrack. When cleaning routes with bolted anchors its a lot easier to clip in using a PAS or sling than it is messing with a clove hitch while trying to clean the anchor and the rap/lower off. Dyneema. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. What length and thickness of static rope is a good starting point to build an anchor? I was thinking maybe 10m (33ft) and 11mm as it it might be rubbing up against things. Sport; I like fat slings (to grab on to and doesn't twist), a nice gate action (some are too stiff, some too loose), favorite gate type for the rope side is a banana-shaped wire (nice and wide so the biner doesn't rotate instead of the rope clipping in) and fat carabiners that last. As one of the lightest slings available, this is a great choice Nov 9, 2021 · The climbing rope is strong, dynamic, and can be adjusted to any length you need. If you have anymore questions let me know. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. You could also just buy it by the yard so you can fiddle with the lengths and use a water knot to join them. I wouldn't be happy. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. A real Via ferrata kit isn't really necessary, but I'd spend a couple bucks on better stuff. Nov 1, 2024 · Slings. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Agreed. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Pad the tree and use it as a monolith. Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. Since your quickdraw will all be a standard length, using different lengths of runners to create a variety of options for draw lengths to use together. 4 cm), 16" (40. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. It just tends to get in the way. The force is distributed over the length of the sling/cord, so the longer the cord the more it can withstand. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. The mid knot is what I rap off and the end loop is for clipping in. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. I normally don't comment on anchor threads because every every gym climber on Reddit who got a copy of Long's "Climbing Anchors" is an expert. Oct 25, 2016 · I am trying to figure out advertised sling sizes. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle My standard extension is a 60cm sling girth hitched to my hard points and knotted midway. Doubling it up would make it too short. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. I have only ever seen 5-6' prusiks used as a 3rd hand while abseiling or rappelling. Alpine draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. Learn how to extend the anchor over the edge so your rope hangs free. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. If you have other suggestions I am open Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. if the longest pitch is 40m bring 10. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. 6 cm) or, 20" (50 The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. I know some people who have much shorter leashes, and if you're primarily sport climbing it's probably better. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. So we tested it. The minis are too small for anything, other than zipper locksbut as zipper locks, the minis/lockable minis are great. This is my preferred method. Its intended use is as a replacement for a commonly used length of cordelette that is tied in a loop and used to build anchors with. Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. BD 18mm nylon Bulk webbing is just accessible nylon. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. 20 votes, 16 comments. Knots in thin slings are also incredibly hard to unfasten if heavily loaded. Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. Personally, I find the feature to be useless. So why not buy… Super quick to adjust to your desired length for the belay and when you're taking apart the anchor you just slide the clove off, throw your anchor on your harness and get going. As I am new to this, just seeking advice in regards to which width is better suited for draws. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. . do any of you know if that is the entire length of the webbing or is it the length of the sling tip to tip? By way of example, Petzel offers a 60cm sling. The extension is marginal, nothing an alpine draw can't do better. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. Two reasons: 1)If the bolts are spaced further apart it is possible to create an obtuse triangle between the knot, creating greater forces at the knot and on the bolts. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. If you notice in the link it refers to sport climbing as well as mountaineering. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. This version has 2 arms, one is a fixed length and designed to be used to extend your rappel (though you can use it as an anchor as well), and the other arm is longer with an ascender type device that you can use to adjust the length. The clipping feel is incredible. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. For single strand rappels (ie simul rap) or super skinny twins (ice climbing) you may want the longer one with more raps. "The other most important thing is that the sling should be minimalistic, comfortable and full strength so that you’ll always have one last shoulder length sling to whip out if you run out of runners to extend a crucial piece, or if you arrive at the anchor with nothing and you need something to clip in with. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. for slings the bare minimum i'l have in my pack is: 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. One very big plus of having an equalized point is that it will eliminate or atleast reduce the master point sliding back and forth caused by the climber climbing sidways. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Quickdraws have a fixed length sling, but most come in either 12cm or 18cm lengths, which you get to choose. I think the deal was, if the company cut ropes, and the rest of the spool was like 53 feet, they would sell that at a reduced price or something. You’ll figure it out, you just need a better understanding of the basics. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. For the Dragons I either use them as they are (in extended mode), or extend just using a regular quickdraw about 80% of the time (extended mode plus a quickdraw already gives about 50cm of extension). The home of Climbing on reddit. I'm going to take a top rope anchor class this weekend @ the Gunks. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. As a general guideline, having at least 15-20 feet (4. You usually need no more than 1 or 2. I've found webbing for a few cents per foot in various thicknesses, and I've read that water knots are pretty damn strong in webbing. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the… Hummingbird Hammocks’ dyneema webbing / spectra whoopie slings combo. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. I find a short hollowblock or similar sized cord is about the max length I want when I’m using the midpoint knot for my belay device with my third hand off my belay loop. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. They are designed to be carried on your harness gear loops just like a normal quickdraw, which gives you quick and easy access to shoulder length slings. Slings, especially dyneema can get worn quite fast. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. Personally, I don't like climbing with a tether. Additionally, the length should allow you to extend the rappel anchor away from any potential rope drag or hazards. And have never once selected one to put on a bolt because it was 2” longer or shorter. If I comment, it's usually "Except for the Quad, self-equalizing is BS. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. All that being said, since many people use cord to resling their old nuts, cams, hexes I would do some research, but you will be fine. The benefits of a clean nose carabiner really make a difference on bolts. If you extend a piece four Like everyone else, the Petzl Djinn are my favorite so far. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). All-road, crossover, gravel, monster-cross, road-plus, supple tires, steel frames, vintage bikes, hybrids, commuting, bike touring, bikepacking, fatbiking, single-speeds, fixies, Frankenbikes with ragbag parts and specs, etc. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. Came up with this idea for a harness using a 120cm sling. You could get by without the 2 extra single lengths and see how you get on, but if you're getting into multis then I highly recommend having the two double length slings for sure. 17 - 18cm slings: These medium-length slings are useful for reducing rope drag, especially when the route is more than 12 quickdraws long or if the rope is not traveling in a straight path. I haven't used really expensive ones like the Spirits or the BD Livewire and don't really feel like I'm missing anything. We are climbing on the bottom chord of the truss, and the top chord is a round tube that can be wrapped with a tape sling--I think that's the pick off point we'd choose for rescue. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Re-racking them is an extra step that can take a second or two, and is also a pain in the ass for the follower. Longer slings can be clipped from lower (provided the draws are already hanging), a great advantage depending on the route. Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. Had a fun and easy 6-pitch climb on the Falkenstein in the Elbe Sandstone region here in Saxony with 2 of my friends. I’d recommend some additional multipitch training, based on these questions, be it from YouTube, books, a guide, a climbing club, whatever. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. However a single snake sling can only be used full length to extend something else. I augment my kit with Nitize plastic s-biner #4 (25lbs) and #2. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Also, if you really don't trust the bolts you shouldn't be climbing on them. Very unlikely of course. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. 8mm (70m) I carry 4-6 25cm quickdraws for clipping nuts/tricams/bolts. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. If you use static line for your anchor, you can slip a length of 1" tubular webbing over the line for an edge protector. wvu pwyaf nxtrei fotui fald kddgbl yvzgx hiezxx bznfy nda jtu elbdrz vflg ozfnl wbjzjxr